Ask any travel blogger to name the most beautiful beaches in Greece and Elafonisi and Balos will both appear in the top ten. They're both in the far west of Crete, both strikingly photogenic, and both significantly further from Rethymno than most tourists realise when they first see the photos.

Which should you choose — and how do you get to either without a car?

Elafonisi: The Pink Lagoon

Elafonisi is a lagoon beach at the far south-western tip of Crete. The famous pink-tinted sand comes from crushed shell fragments mixed with white sand — most visible in shallow water at the lagoon edges and around the small islet you can wade to. The water in the lagoon is extraordinarily shallow and clear, warm even in May and October.

Why people love it: The colour is genuinely unusual. The shallow lagoon is perfect for children. The islet creates a double-beach effect. On a calm day it looks more Caribbean than Mediterranean.

The honest downsides: In July and August, Elafonisi is one of the most crowded beaches in Crete. Multiple tour buses arrive daily. The car park overflows by 10am. The beauty is real, but you share it with several hundred people.

Distance from Rethymno: ~130 km, about 2 hours by car. From Plakias, around 120 km (1h40m) via a different route through the Sfakian mountains.

Balos: The Turquoise Lagoon

Balos is in the far north-western corner of Crete, on the Gramvousa peninsula. The lagoon — technically a double lagoon, with the islet of Karabelos dividing shallow from slightly deeper water — is a vivid turquoise that photographs almost unrealistically bright.

Access involves either a boat from Kissamos port (about 45 minutes each way) or a 4WD dirt track followed by a 20-minute downhill walk to the beach.

Why people love it: The colour is extraordinary — on clear-sky days the lagoon is almost violet-blue. The view from the walk down is dramatic. The Venetian castle on Gramvousa islet can be combined with the beach visit.

The honest downsides: The sea at Balos is often rough and wading is difficult in the shallows due to the rocky bottom. The walk back up from the beach is steep and exposed in the afternoon heat. Boats from Kissamos are busy and you're working to a schedule.

Distance from Rethymno: ~130 km, about 2 hours by car.

Which One Should You Choose?

Choose Elafonisi if:

  • You're travelling with young children (the lagoon is perfect for small kids)
  • You prioritise beach time over adventure
  • You want the famous pink sand experience
  • You're based in Plakias (slightly shorter drive)

Choose Balos if:

  • You're after dramatic scenery and a more active day
  • You want to combine a beach with an interesting boat trip and a castle
  • You're comfortable with some walking
  • You prefer a slightly more varied experience than lying on a beach

Both are genuinely beautiful. Neither is wrong. If you have the time, do both on separate days.

How to Get There from Rethymno

Elafonisi by Private Taxi

From Rethymno, a private transfer to Elafonisi costs around €120–130 (this is significantly more than our standard routes — the distance is 130 km each way). From Plakias, PolyTaxi charges €110 for the one-way transfer.

The recommended approach: early departure (7am), arrive before the crowds, spend 4–5 hours at the beach, return mid-afternoon. Ask about combined pricing for a return trip.

Balos by Taxi + Boat

From Rethymno to Kissamos port by private taxi: approximately €90 (55 km west of Rethymno). From Kissamos, take the Blue Cruises boat to Balos (around €25 return, 45 minutes each way). Boats typically depart 10:30am and 12:30pm, returning 4pm and 6pm.

Alternatively, Kissamos to Balos by 4WD: rent locally in Kissamos or hire a taxi with a suitable vehicle.

Organised Day Tours

Both Elafonisi and Balos are popular destinations for organised tours departing from Rethymno. Prices run €50–80 per person including transport. The advantage is simplicity; the disadvantage is group travel with a fixed schedule and less time at the beach than you might like.

When to Go

Both: May, June, September. Manageable crowds, warm water, good weather.

Avoid: Midday in July and August. Both beaches are extremely crowded 11am–4pm during peak summer. If you go in peak season, aim for arrival before 9:30am.

Elafonisi is at its most photogenic in the early morning when the light hits the lagoon from the east and the crowds haven't arrived yet. Balos catches afternoon light beautifully — the lagoon turns deepest blue around 3pm when the sun is over the Gramvousa peninsula.